I love the ranunculus. It’s like the mille-feuille of the botanical
world, lush with impossibly delicate, silky petals. No matter how many
different ways I’ve tried, I have never been content with the finished
look of sugar paste for this beauty. Confectioner’s wafer lends the
lightness, delicacy, and translucency that I find so essential to
successfully imitate nature.
Materials
(you can purchase a starter kit with the materials for 3 ranunculus HERE)1.5-inch foam ball
2 sheets Wafer Paper
Bright green petal dust
Coated foam or gumpaste flower center affixed to an 18- or 20-gauge floral wire
Cutting mat
Craft circle punches (1 inch and 1.5 inch)
Craft knife
Deep green petal dust
Large angled soft brush
Ruler or straight edge
Small bowl of water
Small and narrow soft brush
Small scissors
Soft round-tipped brush
Violet (or your choice color) petal dust
Instructions
1. Using the smaller circle punch, cut one circle as close to the corner of one sheet of wafer paper as possible.2. Using the cut hole as a guide, line up your ruler or straight edge and cut a strip just larger than the hole. Use that strip as a guide to cut the remainder of the wafer sheet into equal strips.
4. Repeat the process with the large craft circle punch and the second sheet of confectioner’s wafer paper.
5. The wafer circle now needs to be cut.
6. Cutting 2-3 circles at a time, cut from the edge straight towards the
center, approximately ⅓ of the diameter inward (⅓ inch for the 1 inch
round).
7. Dip your brush lightly into the water, only to dampen it slightly.
Blot any excess water on the side or on a paper towel. Brush the water
on the wafer just to the left of the cut. You shouldn’t see any visible
moisture on the wafer; it doesn’t take much to create a sticky surface.
Too much water will simply melt the wafer.
9. Repeat step 8 with all of the circles.
10. Paint a circle of water around the top third of the flower center. (You can use a bit more water in the following steps than you used in creating the cupped petals.)
11. Begin applying the small wafer petals in a circle, slightly overlapping each other, all meeting at the center top of the ball.
12. Use 4-5 petals to form your first and innermost layer.
13. Apply your second layer of petals about ⅛ inch lower than the first
set of petals. Overlap these as well. Use approximately 5 petals to
complete this layer. (Each following layer should be applied slightly
farther down than the previous layer, just as you did here.)
14. Before you add subsequent layers, you’ll notice that there are some
pointed areas from the cupping of the petals and where they may overlap.
Tamp down the points with the side of your slightly wet brush. Don’t
get too close to the tops of the petals, but also don’t be afraid of
using water at this point. The center does much to absorb excess
moisture as does the layered petals.
15. The petals don’t have to be flush to the center. A little irregularity will create more volume and visual interest.
16. Once you are content with the look and quantity of the first smaller petal layers, you can begin using the larger petals.
17. These petals will overhang the ball a bit at first. Paint water at the edges of the petal.
18. Use your fingers to arrange the look of the petal and to pull the
petals down and closer for the first few layers of the larger sized
petals. This will help the flower to still look a bit tight rather than
opening up too abruptly. Allow the last few layers of large petals to
open more.
19. Once you’ve finished applying all of your petals, use a wet brush to
secure the bottom visible layers of petals to the center and create a
flush surface.
20. You can leave your petals as applied like in this picture. They have crisp, clean edges and look very refined. Or…
21. …You can use a lightly wet brush and run it around the edges of the
outer side of the edges of the petals, as in this picture. The wafer
will curl to the side you applied the water and create a more worn,
shabby chic look. I find this look to be more natural, but each look has
their place in design.
Yes, you’ve just finished these flowers. And if you’re accustomed to
working with sugarpaste you may move on to a different task, have a cup
of coffee, or call it a day. We’re used to allowing the sugar to dry for
at least 24 hours (in general) before we apply the finishing touches.
No need with these wafer flowers! You can begin dusting right away! Just
be sure your edges have dried if you applied water to curl them.
22. To dust them and add life, I used three shades of green petal dust: Holly, Moss Green, and Apple Green for the center.
23. First start with the Apple Green, applying your largest diameter coating of color with the small, soft, narrow brush.
24. Add the Moss Green and Holly to the center to gradually deepen the shading towards the center.
25. Using your large, soft, angled brush, load a very light amount of
violet (or your chosen accent color) onto it, tapping the excess off.
27. The accent color is very, very gentle (and very difficult to
reproduce on camera!) but it highlights the edges and gives the flower
life and dimension.
This flower took 20 minutes, from punching the wafer paper to finishing dusting.
Remember, if you use any of my tutorials I would be thrilled to have you share them on my Facebook page!
A starter kit with materials to make three wafer ranunculus are available in my Esty Shop or in my ECWID shop on Facebook.
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Here's what some of my virtual 'students' had to say about this tutorial:
"... Kara's tutorial is very clear and easy to follow." ~ Ivone, Sugar Penguin Cakery
"" ~ Cupcakes par Beckie Lesaint
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